Reviewed by Christina Pasqua, University of Toronto
Ken
Forkish and Sarah Becan. Let’s Make Bread! A Comic Book Cookbook.
PenguinRandomHouse, 2024. US$22. https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/697048/lets-make-bread-by-ken-forkish-and-sarah-becan/
When my husband and I started grad school, we got tired of having to
regularly buy bread. We were already baking cakes and other sweet treats, so
why not try the most essential item on our weekly grocery list? We started with
Julia Child’s white sandwich bread and a friend’s recipe for peasant loaf, then
dinner rolls, baguettes, challah, and brioche buns. Pizza dough and focaccia were
already in our back pocket, thanks to my Italian grandmother, so by the time
the pandemic hit, we were baking bread regularly enough that the shift to
sourdough made sense. After a few years of trial and error—and with the help of
Ken Forkish’s earlier book, Flour, Water, Salt, Yeast (2012)—our
sourdough starter and boule baking skills are still going strong. Reading Let’s
Make Bread!, co-authored by Forkish and Sarah Becan (illustrator of Let’s
Make Dumplings and Let’s Make Ramen), I am reminded that our
relationship with sourdough is not an uncommon one. Making bread is a long-term
project that requires regular attention and care, is rarely perfect on the
first attempt, but always worth the effort, and this comic book cookbook helps
explain why.
The “Levain” chapter is
perhaps the most practical and reflective of Forkish’s bread making philosophy,
beginning with a definition of the term: “Levain is the French word for
sourdough. Because I don’t want my breads to taste sour,” the cartoon Forkish
explains, “I usually use the word ‘levain.’ Both words mean the same thing: a
wild-yeast culture made up from many feedings of just flour and water” (44).
In addition to this
lesson on yeast cultures, the chapter includes step-by-step instructions for getting
your levain started, how to store, maintain (i.e., feed), share, and reactivate
it (especially if you’ve left it in the fridge for a while), all while explaining
the fermentation process at the cellular level. The next chapter gets right to
the good stuff—Forkish’s tried and true recipes from the simple “Saturday Bread”
you can make and enjoy in a single day to more labor-intensive (i.e., multi-day)
recipes like the “Country Bread” or “fruity” pizza dough. Tips and tricks for shaping
your pizza dough, making the perfect sauce, and choosing toppings are also
thoughtfully included, amping up your culinary skills. Many helpful charts are
also listed throughout the chapter highlighting everything from essential ingredients
to a schedule of day-to-day tasks to ensure success for each recipe. One of my
favorite pages from this chapter follows the “Bacon Bread” recipe. I love it not
only for its vibrant use of color but also because it extends the reader’s
bread making skills to the inevitable (and most important) step in baking: eating.
This page wonderfully
showcases the flavor profile and versatility of Forkish’s bacon bread recipe,
teaching the reader how best to serve it through simple kitchen hacks. Who
doesn’t love a homemade crouton!? Finally, the book wraps up on a light
summative note in “The Final Proof,” reiterating some of the main takeaways:
that baking bread is delicious, rewarding, and fun!
I do less of the bread making
and more of the bread eating in my household, so I appreciate how this book
helped me understand the basic elements of baking without the pressure to do it
for myself or, if I were to attempt these recipes, to be good at it. Instead,
Let’s Make Bread! revels in the experimentation process. This comic book
cookbook would make a perfect gift for an aspiring bread baker, old or young,
especially visually oriented folks who prefer illustrated instructions when
learning something new. It’s full of humor, great recipes, and yummy
illustrations that will have you baking (and eating) bread in no time.
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